Brown Brothers Landscaping | FAQs and News

Bushes and Trees for Screens and Privacy Hedges

Fri, 26 Sep 2025 22:08:31 GMT

Bushes and Trees for Screens and Privacy Hedges

When planting bushes or trees for privacy, there are several things to take into consideration when selecting plants. When choosing plants for privacy, first make sure they are evergreen and will not lose foliage during fall/winter, then choose plants based on light requirements, watering, and your budget. The plants below offer wonderful options for screening and privacy hedges.

Bushes: Anise

Anise does well in full sun or shade. Anise is deer resistant and has fragrant flowers.

Bushes: Acuba

Aucuba is a great plant for screening in the shade. Gold Dust or Picturata are two varieties of Aucuba we love to plant.

Bushes: Camellias

There are many varieties of Camellias. Some do well in sun while others do well in shade. They also provide some great color when flowering.

Bushes: Ligustrum (Privet)

Also known as Privet, Ligustrums have a fast growth rate. They create tall, dense screening in full sun. Their dense foliage makes them an excellent candidate for a screening shrub.

Bushes: Lorapetalum

Loropetalums are available in several different varieties with various sizes at maturity as well as foliage and flower color. They add color to the landscape with their red foliage and bright pink fringe flower in the spring. Some varieties will reach 10' to 15' tall or more.

Bushes: Tea Olive

Tea Olives are some of the most fragrant shrubs in landscapes in the south. They can grow 4" to 12" per year. Their dense foliage makes them an excellent candidate for a screening shrub.

Trees: Green Giant Arborvitae

Green Giants are fast-growing trees, growing as much as 3' in height per year. They can reach about 50' to 60' in height and 12' to 20' in width at maturity.

Trees: Yoshino Cryptomeria

These fast-growing specimens can reach 30' to 40' tall and 20' to 30' wide. Its texture provides some great interest in the landscape.

Trees: Emerald Green Arborvitae

When you need screening in tight space, these are a perfect choice. They have a moderate growth rate, reaching 15' tall and only 4' in diameter. We use these often. Due to their slender width, they need to be spaced close together for screening, about 3' - 4' apart.

Trees: Little Gem Magnolia

Little Gems provide all the charm of a southern Magnolia, but in a smaller size. They are a slow grower with a growth rate of less than 12" per year and achieve 15' to 20' in height and 7' to 10' in width at maturity.

Trees: Oak Leaf Holly

Oak Leaf Hollies are fast growing and dense, achieving 14' in height and 8' in width at maturity. Pyramidal in shape. They also have a neat looking leaf, making them a great choice for a Holly for variety in your tree screening planting.

Plants that Attract Georgia Wildlife

Fri, 26 Sep 2025 18:52:43 GMT

Plants that Attract Georgia Wildlife

Article by Department of Natural Resources, Wildlife Resources Division

There are many plants that are both pleasing to the eye and provide songbirds with valuable sources of food long after the flowers themselves have withered and died. Below is a partial list of some plants that are easily grown in Georgia gardens and come in many colors to suit any landscape design.

1) Bachelor's Button

This hardy plant is related to Georgia's native thistle and normally blooms in midsummer. Like the thistle, goldfinches and one or our states newest residents, the house finch favor bachelor button seeds.

2) Chicory

This plant provides gardeners with attractive blue blossoms. In fact, the blossoms and seedpods are often found on the plant at the same time. The seeds of this European weed are considered to be a choice food of the American goldfinch.

3) Cockscomb

This tropical plant is becoming increasingly more common in flower gardens throughout the state. The large, frilly, red blooms do actually look something like a rooster's comb. Cockscomb seeds are eaten by a number of birds.

4) Cosmos

These plants are often used as border plants. The seeds formed from the plant's daisy-like blooms are eaten by our resident American goldfinches and winter migrant whitethroated sparrows and dark-eyed juncos.

5) Four-o'clocks

These interesting plants bloom in the afternoon and early morning and close their petals during the heat of the day. Four-o'clocks will bear yellow, white, pink or red blooms. Quail, cardinals and other songbirds consume four-o'clock seeds.

6) Petunia

The petunia is one of the most common flowers grown in Georgia gardens. These colorful fennel-shaped flowers produce seeds that are relished by goldfinches, fox sparrows and dark-eyed juncos.

7) Verbena

This plant grows well in small places such as window boxes. Verbena flowers are rose, red, purple, and even deep blue. The seeds are eaten by swamp sparrows, cardinals, and others.

8) Zinnia

One of the favorite flowers of Georgia gardeners are the zinnia. Zinnias are available in a wide array of colors and sizes. While providing a profusion of blooms through the summer, these hardy plants produce seeds that are the preferred food of the American goldfinch. In fact, goldfinches are so fond of zinnia seeds that they often will alight on a zinnia stem and pluck the still-green seeds from the seed head.

Some Ornamentals Frequented by Hummingbirds in Georgia Gardens

These plants have been identified by Hummingbird Helpers, participants in the Wildlife Conservation Section's annual hummingbird survey, as being among those favored by hummingbirds in Georgia gardens.

Althea
Azalea
Bee Balm
Begonia
Canna
Coral Honeysuckle
Day Lily
Flowering Tobacco
Four-O'clock
Geranium
Gladiolus
Hibiscus
Impatiens
Lantana
Mexican Sunflower
Petunia
Phlox
Salvia
Trumpet Creeper
Zinnia

Native Trees, Vines and Shrubs of Value as Food Plants for Wildlife

Set the banquet table for wildlife by planting native plants in the backyard. Use this list as a guide in selecting these native plants for fruit, beauty, and attracting wildlife.

Black Cherry
Blueberry
Crossvine
Deerberry
Elderberry
Flowering Dogwood
Laurel Oak
Loblolly Pine
Mayhaw
Mulberry
Passionflower
Pawpaw
Persimmon
Possumhaw
Prickly Pear
Redbud
Red Cedar
Sassafras
Serviceberry
Southern Crabapple
Sparkleberry
Staghorn Sumac
Viburnum
Virginia Creeper
Wax-myrtle
Wild Plum
Willow Oak
Yaupon

10 Easy Foundation Plants for the Front of Your House

Thu, 25 Sep 2025 21:07:56 GMT

10 Easy Foundation Plants for the Front of Your House

Article by "Proven Winners" Contributor, Susan Martin

Wondering which plants are good for foundation plantings? Here are ten easy-to-grow perennials and shrubs that thrive in average garden conditions and will look great planted in front of your house.

Some people have plenty of time to tinker around in their garden until their heart’s content, but if that doesn’t describe you, you are going to find this list super handy. Here are ten easy-to-grow perennials and shrubs that you can plant next to your house and count on to always be in tip top shape. All of them thrive in average garden soil provided that it is well-drained and won’t mind if you miss a day or two of watering. *Tip: These ten plants are organized from shortest to tallest to help you organize your foundation planting from front to back.

1) Stonecrop: Rock 'N Round 'Pure Joy' Sedum

It’s hard to imagine an easier perennial to grow than this little cutie. It forms a perfect dome-shaped mound that hugs the ground, reaching just 10-12” in tall in full bloom. That makes it a perfect choice for growing along the edge of your foundation bed in front of taller roses or evergreens. It will look its best if you grow it in full sun and drier soil with no extra fertilizer needed. Too much love makes sedum’s stems weaker, so just plant it and forget it. Bonus: Light pink flowers which pollinators adore completely cover the succulent green foliage in late summer. Perennial in zones 3-9.

2) Catmint: "Cat’s Pajamas’ and ‘Cat’s Meow’ Nepeta

If you take a drive around town in late spring, you may notice this perennial planted in large drifts. It looks like a blue cloud hugging the ground and it’s often grown in such large numbers because it is so carefree.

Like sedum, catmint thrives in full sun and no extra fertilizer is needed. Even if the soil tends to be a bit dry up near your home's foundation, this plant will thrive in the poor soil and reflected heat from your brick or siding. Cut it back once after its first round of blooms and it will reward you with even more flowers throughout the summer. Both varieties named here are excellent choices, with size being the primary difference. ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ grows 12-14” tall; ‘Cat’s Meow’ grows 17-20” tall. Both are perennial in zones 3-8.

3) Hosta: Shadowland ‘Wheee!’ Hosta

If your foundation is shaded for part or much of the day, hostas are an easy solution. They come in many sizes, from the giant ‘Empress Wu’ hosta to miniature varieties like ‘Mini Skirt’ and every other size in between. ‘Wheee!’ is a distinctive, medium-sized, variegated hosta that grows 11-18” tall and matures to 28-30” across.

If you are growing a short row of annual flowers like Double Up™ begonias at the very front of your foundation bed, ‘Wheee!’ can be planted right behind them. Since hostas return reliably every year, you can count on them to fill the beds up near your home with no fuss, no muss color and texture. Perennial in zones 3-9.

4) Ornamental Onion: ‘Serendipity’ Allium

Ever since Allium ‘Millenium’ was showcased by the Perennial Plant Association as the Perennial Plant of the Year in 2018, this class of ornamental onions has skyrocketed in popularity. ‘Serendipity’ was discovered as a “sport” of ‘Millenium’. It has all the same traits except the non-spreading, mounded foliage is more distinctly blue-green instead of the emerald green of ‘Millenium’. In mid to late summer, rosy purple, 2” globe-shaped flowers stand like lollipops on 15-20” tall stems above the low growing foliage. You’re likely to find pollinating bees and butterflies enjoying it on sunny days. This perennial thrives in full sun to part sun in zones 4-8 and requires no special treatment to thrive.

5) Globe Arborvitae: ‘Tater Tot' Thuja occidentalis

If low growing evergreens are what you need for under your front windowsills or a hedge bordering your entryway, consider this dwarf globe arborvitae. It’s easy to grow in full sun to part sun, handles sandy or well-drained clay soil, and needs little to no pruning to keep its tidy shape. If boxwood blight is an issue in your area, Tater Tot makes an excellent evergreen substitute. This ball-shaped evergreen shrub grows 1-2’ tall and wide, so it fits well in the middle layer of a foundation bed with shorter flowers planted in front and taller flowering shrubs like Limelight Prime® panicle hydrangea planted in back. Hardy in zones 3-7.

6) Juniper: 'Tortuga' Juniper communis

This native cultivar of our common juniper is one of the toughest and most low-maintenance evergreens you’ll find. It spreads easily into a low, broad mound of emerald green foliage to fill the middle sections of your foundation bed. This juniper looks fantastic planted en masse in places where no maintenance is needed, with each plant growing 2’ tall and 3-4’ across. It easily withstands extreme cold, all-day sun to part sun, drought, air pollution and black walnut trees, while being deer and rabbit resistant. How’s that for checking all the boxes? Hardy in zones 2-7.

7) Panicle Hydrangea: ‘Little Lime' Hydrangea paniculata

One of the easiest types of hydrangeas you can grow along your home’s foundation is a panicle hydrangea. Because their size ranges greatly, you’ll want to be sure to read the label carefully when choosing which is the best fit. Some, like the classic ‘Limelight’ panicle hydrangea, can grow upwards of 8’ tall and are better positioned at the corner of your house. Little Lime looks much like ‘Limelight’ but stays shorter at 3-5’ tall. That makes it a better candidate for planting near windows where it won’t block the view.

Panicle hydrangeas do not require special soil to grow except that it needs to be well-drained. They do not like wet soil and can be watered at the same frequency as all the other shrubs in your landscape. Choose a spot in full sun to part sun in the North and protect from afternoon sun in the South. Since panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood, you can count on a reliable flowering performance every year. Hardy in zones 3-8.

8) Switch Grass: Prairie Winds 'Totem Pole' Panicum virgatum

Ornamental grasses might not be the first plant you think of for foundation plantings, but they are actually a very practical choice. Switch grass is a native plant that is extremely durable, tolerating drought as well as short periods of flooding, standing up to wind and storms, and thriving in full sun and heat. It is also salt-tolerant, so it is safe to plant near driveways and paths that are salted in winter.

‘Totem Pole’ is a 6’ tall, narrow columnar variety of switch grass that can be used to soften the corner of your house, hide utilities, or create a living screen. Its gray-green to steel blue foliage complements any neutral color of brick or siding. Other than cutting it down to the ground each spring, no other maintenance should be needed to keep it standing tall all season. Perennial in zones 4-9.

9) False Cypress: ‘Soft Serve' and 'Pinpoint' series Chamaecyparis

If shade and deer are a challenge in your landscape, consider growing false cypress. These evergreen shrubs handle part shade well (though they also grow in full sun) and their fragrant foliage tends to be less appealing to deer. For a shorter 6-10’, broadly pyramidal shape, try Soft Serve at right) or Soft Serve Gold. Their shorter size fits nicely in proportion with a 1-story house and won’t grow tall enough to hit the gutters running along your roofline. For a taller, narrower space, perhaps in a grouping at the corner of your house or as a privacy hedge, choose a Pinpoint false cypress. They grow 15-20’ tall with a 5-6’ diameter at the base. Soft Serve is hardy in zones 4-8; Pinpoint grows in zones 5-7.

10) Rose of Sharon: Chiffon Series of Hibiscus syriacus

If the idea of a low maintenance plant that blooms for months sounds appealing, take a look at the Chiffon series of rose of Sharon shrubs. They grow quickly, don’t require pruning, and produce few to no seeds so they won’t pop up elsewhere around the garden. Chiffon varieties bear anemone-shaped blossoms in seven different shades of pink, purple, blue or white.

Rose of Sharon shrubs come in several sizes, though most are quite large. Chiffon varieties grow 8-12’ tall and tend to be taller than they are wide. This makes them a good candidate for screening, hedging, or planting along a tall, blank wall where you could use a pop of color. The sunny side of your garage is the perfect place for a rose of Sharon since it can handle the reflected heat, light, and soil that tends to be a bit drier. Hardy in zones 5-9.

Fall Landscaping Checklist for DIYers

Thu, 25 Sep 2025 00:03:20 GMT

Fall Landscaping Checklist for DIYers

Article by "This Old House" landscape contractor Roger Cook

Fall landscaping is a crucial investment in your yard's health and beauty for the coming year.

As temperatures cool and soil moisture increases in the fall, plants focus on root development rather than above-ground growth. That makes fall the “prime time to prep your yard for the next growing season,” according to This Old House landscape contractor, Roger Cook. Follow Cook’s comprehensive fall landscaping checklist, below, to set up your lawn and garden for success next spring.

Aerate Cold-Season Grasses

If you notice water pooling on your grass after rainfall, it’s a sign that your soil is compacted. The fix for this is aeration—a process that allows water, air, and nutrients to penetrate the soil and reach grass roots more effectively. Regular aeration each fall ensures a greener, healthier lawn come springtime. For small yards, a garden fork can suffice, but larger lawns benefit from a walk-behind, core aerator. These machines pull out soil plugs about 3 inches deep, which naturally break down by spring, improving soil structure and lawn health.

Feed Your Grass

While it’s wise to cut back on fertilizer for perennials in late summer, your lawn can benefit from a fall feeding. “Grass roots keep growing until the ground gets down to around 40 degrees,” Cook says, “so this is a good time to feed them.” A well-fed lawn is better equipped to withstand winter stresses and disease.

Apply a high-phosphorus (12-25-12) fertilizer mix to lawns in the fall. This nutrient balance encourages strong root development, which helps your lawn green up earlier and more vigorously in spring.

Mow a Final Time

Before winter sets in, give your lawn a final trim. However, be cautious not to cut too low, as grass produces most of its food in the upper blade. Striking the right balance ensures your lawn stays healthy through winter and emerges strong in spring.

Cook recommends cutting the grass to about 1¼ inches for the last mow of the season. This shorter length offers several benefits. “Disease has a harder time with shorter grass,” Cook says, “and fallen leaves blow across the lawn because they have nothing to latch on to.”

Collect Leaves

Fallen leaves can smother your lawn if left unattended, so it’s crucial to remove them. To make this task easier, rake leaves onto a plastic tarp for easy transport. But don’t let those leaves go to waste—they’re perfect for composting.

Add your raked leaves to a compost bin, along with any leaves you remove from your gutters. A simple chicken-wire pen will do. Turn the leaf pile weekly with a garden fork to aerate it. By next year, you’ll have nutrient-rich “black gold” to nourish your lawn, flower beds, and shrub borders.

Plant New Shrubs and Trees

In many regions, early fall is an excellent time to plant new shrubs and trees. The cool, moist soil conditions encourage strong root establishment before winter dormancy. It's important to choose species that are well-suited to your local climate, and consulting with your local nursery can provide valuable insights into which shrubs are most likely to thrive in your area. Here’s a basic guide for planting shrubs:

Dig a hole twice the diameter of the root ball and 2 inches shallower than its full height.
Position the shrub in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is at ground level.
Backfill with soil and water thoroughly to settle the soil.
Add more soil around the root ball if needed, but avoid packing it down with your foot.
Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the shrub, keeping it away from the trunk.

Winter Protection of Ornamental Plants

Wed, 24 Sep 2025 18:08:28 GMT

Winter Protection of Ornamental Plants

Cooler weather is wonderful, but unfortunately, with the onset of sweater weather, there comes the threat of frost damage to our landscape plants. During the fall months, perennial plants prepare for dormancy; they stop producing new leaves and store energy in their wood and roots. If the plants haven’t completed this process before temperatures drop to 32 degrees Fahrenheit or lower, the water in the plant cells freezes, expands, and ruptures the cell walls. This is what causes the characteristic mushy, drooping injury in plants. Cold or windy conditions can also cause leaf browning and scorch, twig death, and in extreme cases bark-splitting. Usually, it’s obvious that your plants suffered cold damage, but occasionally the effects of a freeze show up weeks or months after the weather that caused the injury.

So, what can you do to protect your plants from such a sad fate? As with most gardening issues, there are preventative measures…and more preventative measures. The best way to avoid frost damage is to plant species that are hardy in the USDA hardiness zone where you live. Also, be aware of the areas within your landscape that are less sheltered. Plants placed in full sun are out in the open to provide their required light, but on clear, cold nights, that exposure can threaten these sun-loving plants due to radiational freezes that strip heat from the ground. Windy areas are also more exposed and thus more likely to cause damage.

Plants in containers have additional concerns. Container plants cool down faster than other plants because they don’t have the benefit of ground heat. No matter how large your flowerpot is, it can’t insulate plant roots the same way that the ground does. The best practice is to move potted plants into the house, garage, or shed in freezing weather. If that isn’t possible, cluster them together in a protected area and apply mulch all around and between the plant pots, then wrap blankets, burlap, or plastic around the gathering.

But what if it’s too late? If you planted the wrong thing in the wrong place, how can you save it from frost and freeze damage? The best thing you can do for a tender plant is to dig it up and put it in a planter to store inside during winter. If that isn’t an option, this is what you need to do: maintain proper soil moisture, avoid nitrogen fertilizers, and mulch your plants as temperatures cool off.

It may seem counterintuitive to water a plant to avoid freeze injury, but a drought-stressed plant will be weakened and thus more susceptible to other types of damage. Nitrogen fertilizers encourage the plant to produce new leaves, the exact opposite of what plants should be doing in fall and winter, so avoid using nitrogen fertilizers while plants are slowing down and moving into dormancy. Lastly, at night, the ground radiates the heat it has collected during the day, so mulch will trap heat from the ground, and it will retain soil moisture.

When the forecast predicts a freeze, cover your plants with cloth or cardboard. You want the material to span the space above the plant and contact the ground all around the plant; this will help trap the ground heat and hold it around the plant. It is also common practice to create a frame to support the covering; this way the fabric or cardboard is not damaging branches. Plastic will work to cover plants and keep the heat in, but you will need to remove the plastic soon after daybreak. The reason for this is that plastic will heat quickly in sunlight, and while you intend to protect your plants from the cold, they could end up baking under the plastic, instead.

For more information on protecting your ornamental plants in the winter and caring for your potted plants, click on the links below.

Article by Shannon Henderson, ANR Educator, UGA Extension Forsyth County

When to Prune and How to Do It Right

Wed, 24 Sep 2025 17:41:55 GMT

When to Prune and How to Do It Right

Pruning in the correct manner and at the proper time can help to maintain the size and shape of your woody shrubs, improving their appearance and appealing to the artist in every gardener. Pruning also plays an important role in the health, productivity and well-being of woody plants. Three techniques that are important to understand if you are pruning your woody plants relate to tool sanitation, proper cutting technique, and pruning timing.

FIRST, SANITIZE YOUR TOOLS:

Always use clean pruning shears and be sure to sanitize the shears after each use. This is easily accomplished by either dipping them or wiping them down with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol. Some folks use a 10% bleach solution for this purpose, but it tends to have a corrosive effect on your tools over time.

SECOND KNOW THE CORRECT TECHNIQUE:

There are two main types of cuts that you can make while pruning, one is called a “heading cut”, in which the tips of branches are removed. This type of pruning is used to create dense regrowth near the cut, as would be expected in a hedge. The other type of cut that is often used is a “thinning cut”, in which an entire branch is removed at its base on the main stem or along a larger branch. Thinning helps to allow more light to enter the shrub and is the preferred method if the pruning goal is to maintain a natural form.

Take care when making cuts to look for the raised ridge of bark around the shoot that you are pruning and make your cut so that that ridge is left intact. Tissue in this ridge of bark will help promote sealing of the cut, so if you damage it, you may be inviting problems. It is also important to cut close enough to this ridge without leaving a stub, which can also slow the sealing process. Use the three-cut method, explained on the right, to avoid damaging the bark around the cut.

THE THREE-CUT METHOD:

Cut a notch above where you plan to make your final pruning cut.
Cut the branch off above the notch to remove the weight of the branch-this will leave a stub.
Make your final cut just above the branch bark ridge, leaving a clean opening that can begin to heal.

THIRD, KNOW WHEN TO PRUNE:

I’m often asked when is the best time to prune hollies, crape myrtles, gardenias, azaleas, boxwoods, or any other woody plant you can think of. It can be very confusing to know when to prune flowering plants or evergreen plants. The following are some basic rules that will help you determine when to prune your landscape plants.

Rule No. 1

If the plant blooms in the spring such as azaleas, dogwoods, forsythia, or mophead hydrangea, then it should be pruned right after blooming. Spring flowering plants form their flower buds in the fall. If these plants are pruned in late winter then the flower buds will be removed and as a result there will be no spring flowers to enjoy.

Rule No. 2

If the plant blooms in the summer, then prune in late winter (late February to early March) while the plant is still dormant.

Rule No. 3

If plants are not grown for their flowers, the best time for pruning is during the dormant winter season (late February to early March) before new growth begins in the spring.

Rule No. 4

Do not prune during the late summer and fall because new growth may occur and make the plants more susceptible to cold injury.

There are some exceptions to these rules. Remove anything that is dead or diseased any time of the year. Another exception would be to clean up the overall appearance of a spring bloomer that has not been pruned in a very long time. For example, if an azalea is ten feet tall and scraggly and doesn’t flower well, then by all means prune it in the late winter to clean it up. The plant won’t flower in the spring but it will at least have a healthy start in the spring and will bloom the following year.

Some trees may bleed (it’s really sap) after pruning. Examples include willows, birches, maples, beeches and dogwoods. Bleeding may be unsightly but typically is not harmful. However, if you don’t want the tree to bleed, then prune in late spring or early summer when there are leaves on the trees. Actively growing leaves tend to reduce the amount of bleeding from pruning cuts and allow the cuts to heal more quickly.

To obtain more information on the correct way to prune, you can download the following University of Georgia Extension publications Basic Principles of Pruning Woody Plants and Pruning Ornamental Plants in the Landscape , below.

Article by Mary Carol Sheffield, University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Agricultural and Natural Resources Agent, Paulding County

How to Care for Bermudagrass

Tue, 23 Sep 2025 20:29:11 GMT

How to Care for Burmudagrass

Bermudagrass is valued for its exceptional heat and drought tolerance and its capacity to withstand heavy use and recuperate quickly. This combination of qualities leads many U.S. lawn owners to rely on Bermudagrass for its resilience.

First, Bermudagrass is native to tropical and subtropical countries worldwide. The date of its U.S. arrival is unknown, but historical documents reveal it was already established as one of the primary grasses in southern states in 1807. Bermudagrass is a perennial warm-season grass, meaning it comes back every year in the proper climate and grows most actively from late spring through hot summer months. Bermudagrass is more sensitive to cold temperatures than warm-season Zoysia grass or cool-season grasses such as turf-type tall fescue . This lack of cold tolerance limits its use north of the grass-growing region lawn pros call the "transition zone." South of that region, from the Atlantic across southern states into California, Bermudagrass is a leading lawn choice.

Bermuda grass flourishes in sites with full, direct sun and good drainage. It has superior heat, salt and humidity tolerance. Unlike Centipede grass , Bermuda is very drought-tolerant, too. Though most of Bermuda's roots stay within 6 inches of the surface, they can reach 6 feet or more in depth. This extensive root system provides more resilience against environmental stresses than other warm-season lawn grasses .

Burmudagrass Basics

MOWING

Don’t let the grass blades get taller than 1 to 2 inches tall during the summer and only take off 1/3 of the grass blade at one time.

FERTILIZING

Fertilize Bermudagrass with 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. every 4 weeks during the summer. This can be done by applying 6 pounds of 16-4-8 or 8 pounds of 12-4-8. Also, a soil test might be necessary to determine if your soil requires more than fertilizer to grow a lush carpet of grass. Contact your local Extension office for details.

WATERING

Watering is best done from 9pm until 10 am to reduce water loss and fungus problems. Water a total of 1 inch per week, in no more than three waterings. The time it takes to do this depends on your watering system. Put a tuna or cat food can out in the grass and turn on your sprinkler to see how long it takes to get a 1/2 inch of water in the can (measure with a ruler).

DE-THATCHING

De-thatch your lawn in Spring and Fall to prevent fungus and pest problems.

AERATING

Bermudsgrass is a warm-season grass, so it's best to aerate yearly or every other year in the early spring. Make sure to choose double-pass, core aeration (not spike aeration), and aerate when the lawn is moist for best results.

COMMON PROBLEMS AND BASIC PREVENTION

Fungus: (such as Brown Patch, Dollar Spot): Water correctly—not in the afternoons! Don’t fertilize after September and mow grass at the recommended height and de-thatch in Spring.
Mole Crickets: Call your local Extension Agent for current recommendations on how to eradicate an infestation.
Improper Fertilizer: Bermuda does great with lots of Nitrogen, but looks terrible without it.

The Benefits of Leaf Mulching

Tue, 23 Sep 2025 18:54:57 GMT

The Benefits of Leaf Mulching

First, what is leaf mulching? Leaf mulching is the practice of chopping leaves into small pieces. Mulching can be done with a lawn mower or a leaf shredder. Mulched leaves can be left on your lawn or they can be piled 3″ or 4″ deep on garden beds and around shrub roots, where they act as a protective layer in the winter and, in the growing season, prevent weed growth and help conserve water.

Leaf mulch decomposes over time adding important nutrients and structure to the soil. Mulch-mowing can be done by both homeowners with small mowers or by commercial landscapers who can buy relatively inexpensive mulching kits to attach to the mower deck instead of regular blades. Deep piles of leaves are no match for landscapers equipped with leaf mulching blades and deck attachments. Mulch-mowing with a regular mower might require repeated passes in the leaf season.

FYI: If there is too much leaf material left on the lawn after a deep pile has been mulched, redistribute it with a rake into the planting beds or spread it around the lawn. Like mowing deep, wet grass, mulch mowing deep piles of wet leaves can be difficult. Spread the leaves thin and try to mow when leaves are dry.

LEAF MULCHING HOW-TO

We advise mulching leaves that have fallen on your grass lawns, rather than blowing them off the lawn. Mulching the leaves on your lawn has many advantages: It reduces noise and greenhouse gases, because it reduces the use of leaf blowers, and as an added bonus, it also enhances the health of your yard by creating valuable compost, which enriches the topsoil. Leaf mulching avoids the spreading dust and contaminants into the air and saves you time and money. The benefits of leaf mulching are numerous:

Mulching is quieter and cleaner.
Mulching improves soil structure, reduces the need for fertilizer and avoids water pollution by reducing phosphorus and fertilizer leaching.
Mulching reduces the safety hazard of piled up or bagged leaves on the roadsides and saves taxpayer money for municipal leaf collection.
Mulch, when spread on garden beds, suppresses weeds and improves soil quality and when it decomposes into compost, it suppresses disease.
By adding organic matter to the soil, leaf mulching improves water retention and percolation, for improved rain water management.
Additional organic matter loosens the soil allowing grass roots to penetrate more deeply, improving grass health.
Not all leaves have to be mulched. Rake them around the base of trees and shrubs or into perennial beds where they will protect the roots of those plants as well as provide essential winter habitat for butterflies and important insects.

How To: Overseed Winter Rye Grass

Tue, 23 Sep 2025 18:34:49 GMT

How To: Overseed Winter Rye Grass

The goal of a year-round green lawn is an elusive one. Fescue comes close, but keeping it thick and healthy during the summer is tough. Bermudagrass is vibrantly green during the summer but turns buff brown in winter. Professional landscapers solve the problem by overseeding their Bermuda turf with ryegrass in October. The rye sprouts readily and grows all through the winter. Next spring, theoretically, hot weather plus low mowing kills it for the summer.

The process seems simple – and it is. But there are a few ways to make the practice go better. Keep in mind that overseeding bermudagrass with ryegrass is like you trying to take a nap during a child’s birthday party. The needs of one grass might not coincide with the needs of the other.

Overseeding should be done ONLY IF your bermudagrass is in very good shape. Overseeding may retard the warm-season grass unless managed correctly in the spring, because the ryegrass competes for moisture, sunlight and nutrients. The best time to overseed is thirty days before the first frost, which usually occurs in mid-November. For more information on the steps to overseed winter rye grass, seebelow.

NOTE: Overseeding with ryegrass does have drawbacks. The grass competes with the Bermuda for nutrients in the spring. The fertilizer may lead to cold-weather injury on the Bermuda if we have a severe winter.

FIRST, MOW YOUR LAWN:

The ryegrass will sprout more readily if it is in close contact with the soil. Before you spread seed, mow the bermudagrass lawn low (one to one and one-half inches high) or run a motorized aerator over the lawn.

SECOND, SEED AND FEED:

Use 5 to 10 pounds of annual ryegrass seed per 1000 square feet of lawn. Using more seed will give you a green color sooner – but you’ll have a hard time getting rid of all that rye next summer when you want the bermudagrass to take over. At seeding, spread starter fertilizer on the lawn. Early next February, spread lawn fertilizer on the grass. This will feed the rye without unduly stimulating the bermudagrass while it is trying to remain dormant in the winter.

THIRD, LOWER IN THE SPRING:

Ryegrass is kept mowed two to three inches tall during the winter. A few weeks before the last frost of the spring, mow the rye/bermuda down to one inch. This will shock the ryegrass while allowing the bermudagrass to begin greening up. Wait until the bermudagrass has become at least 50 percent green (usually in early May) before you begin fertilizing it with lawn food.

Joro Spiders - What You Need to Know

Mon, 22 Sep 2025 21:35:39 GMT

The Joro Spider: An Unwelcome Addition to Georgia Landscapes

Georgia is now home to a huge, non-native arachnid, the joro spider (Trichonephila clavata), a member of the orb-weaver group of spiders. It’s in the news because the adult female spider is quite colorful and can be as large as 3 to 4 inches across, the size of the palm of your hand.

This native of East Asia was first positively identified in Georgia in the fall of 2014, when it was found in the Braselton area. Rick Hoebeke, arthropods collections manager with the Georgia Museum of Natural History, who identified the spider, believes it probably arrived in a shipping container that was delivered to the area.

Since 2014, the Joro spider has rapidly expanded its territory and its population. It is now found in most of the counties in the northern half of Georgia.

This rapid expansion is due to the spider’s lifecycle and adaptability. The joro is quite cold-tolerant, and though adults tend to die off in fall or winter, egg sacs (with hundreds of eggs) overwinter. Hatchlings emerge in spring and begin to expand their territory. They do this by riding the wind on thin strands of silk, a process called “ballooning.” By catching an air current, it is estimated that the spiders can travel tens to hundreds of miles.

If you want to control the joro spiders on your property, identification is key because you certainly don’t want to kill beneficial native spiders. One important distinguishing feature is the web. Joro spiders typically build large, three-dimensional, extremely sticky and messy webs, and when the sun hits them, the silk may appear golden, especially if the spider is an adult. The web can be enormous and may be communal, with several spiders inhabiting one large web.

The mature female Joro is the easiest to identify. She will have an elongated body with horizontal bands that alternate between yellow and bluish green to black. The abdomen has a red patch on the underside. The long, thin legs are black and typically have yellow banding. The juvenile female also has an elongated body with yellow banding on the legs, but the marking on her back is a blocky pattern of black, yellow, and white.

Be sure not to confuse the joro with the yellow garden spider or writing spider (Argiope aurantia), a native, beneficial spider. See the differences, below.

Joro Spider

Yellow Garden Spider

Gardening with Georgia Native Plants

Fri, 08 Aug 2025 13:46:15 GMT

GEORGIA'S NATIVE PLANTS:

BEAUTIFUL, SUSTAINABLE AND REQUIRE LESS EFFORT

When it comes to spring gardening in Georgia, choosing native plants isn’t just good for the environment—it’s a smart, sustainable way to create a beautiful landscape that thrives with less effort. Native plants are naturally adapted to Georgia’s unique soil, climate, and weather patterns, which means they’re more drought-tolerant, disease-resistant, and beneficial for pollinators and local wildlife.

Whether you’re new to gardening or planning a full landscape refresh, planting native species can help you:

Conserve water

Minimize pesticide and fertilizer use

Support Georgia’s native birds, bees, and butterflies

Reduce garden maintenance

Create a sense of place with authentic Southern flora

BEST TOP-PERFORMING NATIVE GEORGIA PLANTS

PURPLE CONEFLOWER

( Echinacea purpurea )

A beloved wildflower with tall, purple-pink petals and a golden cone center, purple coneflower is perfect for pollinator gardens in Georgia. It’s drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, and attracts butterflies and bees from spring through fall.

GEORGIA ASTER

( Symphyotrichum georgianum )

This late-blooming native aster offers striking deep purple flowers that bloom in mid to late spring. It grows well in full sun to partial shade and helps support native bees.

CORAL HONEYSUCKLE

( Lonicera sempervirens )

A showstopper vine with tubular red-orange flowers, coral honeysuckle is a hummingbird magnet. It’s a native Georgia plant ideal for arbors, fences, or trellises.

SOUTHERN BLUE FLAG IRIS

( Iris virginica )

Great for wetter areas of your garden, this striking perennial has sword-like leaves and vibrant blue-purple flowers. It grows naturally near marshes and streams throughout Georgia

BUTTERFLY WEED

( Asclepias tuberosa )

This hardy, orange-flowered milkweed is a must for anyone looking to support monarch butterflies in Georgia. It thrives in full sun and sandy or well-drained soil.

OAKLEAF HYDRANGEA

( Hydrangea quercifolia )

A true native gem, this flowering shrub offers large, cone-shaped blooms that start white and fade to pink. Its oak-like leaves turn brilliant red and orange in fall, giving year-round interest.

JOE PYE WEED

( Eutrochium fistulosum )

If you’ve got space for a tall stunner, Joe Pye Weed brings height and butterfly appeal to your garden with large pink flower clusters. It prefers moist soils and partial sun.

CHRISTMAS FERN

( Polystichum acrostichoides )

For shady areas, this evergreen fern is a Georgia native favorite. It adds lush, green texture to woodland gardens and pairs beautifully with native wildflowers.

TIPS FOR PLANTING GEORGIA'S NATIVE PLANTS

GARDENING WITH PURPOSE IS SMART GARDENING

When you plant native, you’re not just creating a beautiful garden—you’re supporting Georgia’s delicate ecosystems. Native plants provide critical food and habitat for wildlife, from tiny pollinators to birds and small mammals. They also contribute to soil health and help prevent erosion. In a time when biodiversity loss and climate change are growing concerns, even a small native garden can make a big difference.

Choose the Right Plant for the Right Place: Even native species need the right growing conditions. Pay attention to sunlight, soil type, and moisture when selecting plants.

Go Organic When Possible: Native plants typically require fewer chemical inputs, so consider adopting organic gardening practices to keep your landscape safe for pollinators and pets.

Water Wisely: Once established, most native plants are drought-tolerant. However, give new transplants consistent moisture during their first growing season to help roots establish.

Mulch with Purpose: Use natural mulch like pine straw or shredded bark to retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.

DESIGNING WITH GEORGIA'S NATIVE PLANTS

Using native plants doesn’t mean sacrificing style. In fact, they can create some of the most visually striking gardens when combined with a thoughtful eye for color, height, texture, and seasonal bloom times. Whether you’re going for a more formal front yard look or a relaxed backyard vibe, here are three inspired garden design ideas that feature native Georgia plants.

A POLLINATOR-FRIENDLY, COTTAGE BORDER

Create a full, layered look by pairing the plants, below. This kind of combination works well along walkways, fences, or around mailboxes. It’s not only beautiful but buzzing with life during the warmer months.

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) for height and color
Bee Balm (Monarda didyma) for fragrance and hummingbirds
Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) to bring in monarchs
Eastern Bluestar (Amsonia tabernaemontana) for soft blue spring flowers and golden fall foliage
Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata) along the border edge for spring groundcover

A WOODLAND RETREAT AND SHADE GARDEN

For shady areas under trees or along the edges of your property, try mixing these native plants for a peaceful, elegant shade garden. These native plants are low-maintenance (once established) and are ideal for areas that get morning sun or dappled afternoon light.

Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) for evergreen interest
Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense) for groundcover and unique foliage
Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) for soft, early-spring color
Native Azaleas (Rhododendron canescens) for showstopping blooms
Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum biflorum) to add graceful height and movement

A DROUGHT-TOLERANT HILLSIDE OR SLOPE

If you’re dealing with a sloped yard or a dry area that’s hard to keep green, go native with plants that don’t mind the challenge. Try these plants to create a dynamic look that shifts beautifully through the seasons—and they help prevent soil erosion on tricky spots.

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) for soft, rustling grass texture
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) for cheerful yellow blooms
False Indigo (Baptisia australis) for blue-purple flower spikes and hardy roots
Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) for long-lasting yellow color
Georgia Aster (Symphyotrichum georgianum) for rich fall color

GEORGIA NATIVE PLANT RESOURCES

- PURCHASING, EDUCATION, EVENTS -

For more information on Georgia's native plants or purchasing resources, you can get started with our list below. These resellers are trusted sources of native plants and seeds; however, when buying, we recommend that you avoid plants that are labeled “nursery cultivars” or “nativars” if your goal is ecological restoration. Go for straight species whenever possible.

GEORGIA NATIVE PLANT SOCIETY (GNPS)

Education, Plant Sales, Events

The Georgia Native Plant Society (GNPS) is a wonderful nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. Their website offers a wealth of information on Georgia's native plants, resource material to help you learn more about the importance of conservation, using native plants in landscaping, and they also host plant sale events.

WEBSITE: https://gnps.org/

PHONE: 770-343-6000

UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA EXTENSION

Education, Workshops, Events

For over 100 years, University of Georgia Cooperative Extension has provided free, reliable, research-based information based on the latest scientific research in language that anyone can understand.UGA Extension offers a wealth of personalized services like workshops, classes, consultations, certifications, camps and educator resources.

CLICK HERE TO READ MORE ABOUT GA NATIVE PLANTS

PHONE: 678-377-4010

WARNER ROBBINS NATIVE PLANT CENTER

Education, Plant Sales, Events

The Warner Robins Native Plant Center is a community project of Keep Warner Robins Beautiful and Georgia Military College . Its mission is to educate the public about the importance of Georgia's native plants to a healthy ecosystem. They offer a Spring seminar series, programs for school groups, volunteer oportunities, education on plant propagation and conservation, and plant sales each Spring and Fall. Plants included are native perennials, shrubs, and trees.

WEBSITE: https://www.grownatives.org/

ADDRESS: GMC Warner Robins Campus

115 Prince Street, Warner Robins, GA 31093

PHONE: Ben White, 478-718-9079

COTTAGE GARDEN NATIVES

Nursery (Local and Online Plant Sales)

A great resource for buying native plants is Cottage Garden Natives , a small, family-owned native plant nursery in Lithonia. They specialize in growing plants native to the Georgia Piedmont region and throughout the southeastern United States, and regularly host plant sale events and open houses.

WEBSITE: https://www.cottagegardennatives.com/home

ADDRESS: 6244 Holt Road, Lithonia, GA 30058
PHONE: 770-282-4859

EVERGREEN NURSERY

*WHOLESALE Plant Sales

Although Evergreen Nursery only sells to landscapers and garden centers, they are worth mentioning because they have a huge selection of plants native to Georgia, including perennials, groundcovers, ferns, Hostas, and grasses. You can visit their website to see the plants they offer, and if you see something you love and it's available, contact us and we'll arrange the purchase, pickup, and delivery.

WEBSITE: https://evergreennurseryinc.net/

CALL BROWN BROTHERS TO BUY: 470-238-9057

Armyworms in Georgia Turfgrass

Wed, 06 Aug 2025 21:23:27 GMT

FALL ARMYWORMS ARE ON THE MARCH IN GEORGIA AND

CAN CAUSE MAJOR DAMAGE TO YOUR LAWN

Caring for the health of your lawn begins with learning about common pests and how to spot an infestation in your turfgrass, and because fall armyworms can severely damage your lawn in only a few days, it's important to know what to look for. Fall armyworms cause damage by consuming the foliage of your lawn, and because they cross the turf surface as a group, they create a noticeable line between damaged and undamaged turfgrass. You may first notice their presence when a brown patch of grass gets larger each day. Or they can be very aggressive and you'll find your lawn with no grass and only dirt after only a day or two. This is why it's important to identify an infestation and treat your turfgrass quickly.

A BRIEF HISTORY

Many people are unfamiliar with armyworms, but because of the particularly bad infestation in 2021, they have become more well-known to homeowners. Early accounts of armyworm damage date back to the late 1800s, with reports of severe damage to crops like winter wheat and corn, and in recent years, there have been significant outbreaks in the southeast, with some years seeing infestations as severe as those in the 1970s.

WHAT ARE FALL ARMYWORMS?

Fall armyworms are the larvae of a small brownish-gray moth. Their scientific name is Spodoptera frugiperda . They plague many crops, but prefer most grasses, including coastal bermudagrass, fescue, ryegrass, bluegrass, Johnsongrass, timothy, corn, sorghum, and Sudangrass—even small grain crops are subject to infestation. Armyworms don’t care for Zoysia. In hot, dry weather, the moths and caterpillars really like lawns in the southeast, including Georgia, and can be found as far north as North Carolina and Tennessee. They are a subtropical moth that migrates north from the Gulf Coast and tropics, and are not indigenous to our area and cannot overwinter here. Their arrival in Georgia occurs in the spring or early summer, and are noticeable in turfgrass in early July. The exact timing of their arrival in Georgia is subject to weather conditions and varies every year, so it's important to be on alert for fall armyworm activity from July until the first frost.

FALL ARMYWORM: LIFE CYCLE AND IDENTIFICATION

ARMYWORM MOTH

ARMYWORM EGG MASS

ARMYWORM CATEPILLAR (LARVAE)

ARMYWORM PUPAE

For more detailed information on identifying

 fall armyworms, please click here .

The life cycle of the fall armyworm is 30 days during the summer, but 60 days in the spring and autumn. The moths are active at night, and after mating, they lay eggs in batches (called egg masses). The moths lay eggs on any surface or structure near a lawn—fences, poles, exterior walls, trees, plants, etc. All eggs in each mass hatch at about the same time and within 2–3 days.

The hatched caterpillars (larvae) aggregate for some time where their eggs were laid, then leave the site using a thin web to lower themselves and land on the turfgrass. Caterpillars must feed on the grass within a few hours after their eggs hatch, and young caterpillars remain inside the turfgrass canopy and feed on grass blades, mostly at night.

Late-stage caterpillars are aggressive feeders and are active during both the day and night. In the summer, they take 2 to 3 weeks to reach the pupal stage. The fifth-stage caterpillars drop from leaves onto the soil surface, and then they bore into the soil for pupation.

In this inactive and nonfeeding stage, dark brown pupae remain in the soil for a little over a week before emerging as moths. After a week, the newly emerged adults mate and start laying eggs again. During the summer months in Georgia, one generation (from egg to moth) is completed within 4 weeks.

ARMYWORM IDENTIFICATION

Moths: Fall armyworm moths are identified by their mottled gray forewings with a white spot near the tip and center—which is more prominent in males—and white hindwings. They are relatively small, with a wingspan of about 1 to 1.5 inches.

Egg Masses: A single fall armyworm egg mass consists of 50–200 eggs and appears as a cottony, fuzzy patch on a surface. (FYI: If you see 10 egg masses near a lawn, approximately 1,000 fall armyworm caterpillars will be available to infest that lawn.)

Caterpillars (Larvae): Fall armyworm caterpillars are approximately 1-1.5 inches long and are identified by a distinct inverted Y-shaped marking on their head capsule, and four prominent black spots arranged in a square pattern on the second to last abdominal segment. They can also be identified by their varied coloration, which can range from green to brown or black, with darker stripes along their sides.

Pupae: After the larvae feed on your lawn for 2-3 weeks, they dig into the soil and pupate, typically about an inch deep. A rmyworm pupae are typically .5–.75" long and are reddish-brown in color. The pupal stage lasts about 8 to 9 days in the summer. Within two weeks, a new population of moths emerges. At the moth stage, they are not a threat to your lawn.

HOW TO TEST FOR FALL ARMYWORMS

SO, HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOUR LAWN IS INFESTED WITH ARMYWORMS?

BROWN AND DYING TURFGRASS

If your grass has become discolored, looks like it has been exposed to frost, or looks like it is dying, you could have an armyworm infestation. (See examples of fall armyworm damage on the right.) The damage to your turfgrass often appears in a side-to-side pattern, beginning on one side of your lawn and then quickly moves across to the other side. This happens because the larvae hatch on one side of your lawn and then "march" like an army across your lawn, eating your turfgrass. In other cases, armyworms can infest your lawn and the damage is not uniform. If you can't easily see the armyworm larvae (caterpillars) in your turfgrass, it's best to do a soap flush test to see if there's an infestation. Read how, below.

A BIRD BUFFET

Another sign of an armyworm infestation is the presence of a large number of birds in the turf area, since armyworms are an excellent food source for birds.

IDENTIFY TURFGRASS PESTS USING THE SOAP FLUSH TEST

Identifying an insect infestation in lawns is often a time-consuming process. Because some of the most damaging pests rarely make an appearance above the soil, it can be challenging to detect an issue before your lawn experiences major symptoms.

The best solution for detecting pests is the soap flush test— a very simple yet effective method for spotting insects in lawns. As the name suggests, the soap flush test requires a mixture of dish detergent and water that can be used for monitoring both small and large areas of lawn. Once applied to grass, the soap will irritate any insects in the soil, forcing them to emerge to the surface.

Other than identifying armyworms in your turfgrass, the soap flush test is an effective test for identifying multiple types of damaging insects, including chinch bugs, mole crickets, annual bluegrass weevils, cutworms, bluegrass billbugs, sod webworms, and grub worms. More importantly, using the soap flush test can help you understand the type of insect you’ll be dealing with, so you can buy the most effective insect control product for that particular infestation and not waste time and money.

Scroll down for step-by-step instructions on how to successfully perform a soap flush test.

HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY PERFORM A SOAP FLUSH TEST

Performing the soap flush test is a fairly simple process that takes only 5–10 minutes. The most common techniques for applying the soap solution include using a watering can, a hose-end sprayer, or a small container such as a bucket. The following steps include the instructions for preparation as well as the procedure for application.

STEP 1: PREPARE THE SOLUTION

Before preparing the solution, determine whether you’ll be monitoring a small or a large section of your lawn. For small areas (typically 1 sq. yd. of grass), add 2 ounces of liquid dish detergent to 1 gallon of water, then mix the solution until soap suds appear. Liquid dish soaps such as Lemon Joy, Ultra Dawn and Ivory Clear are excellent options as they cause the least damage to turfgrass—and experts claim that lemon-scented dish soap works the best. If you plan on monitoring a large section of your lawn, prepare at least 1 gallon of a solution containing two parts water to one part liquid dish detergent. (IMPORTANT NOTE: More soap isn't better! Soap solutions with higher ratios than what's recommended here can cause serious damage to your turfgrass. Remember, too, that applying the solution to a smaller area of the lawn allows the mixture to be more concentrated in that spot, so be careful with both the correct soap-to-water ratio and the surface area you're testing.)

STEP 2: APPLY THE SOLUTION

After mixing the solution until soap suds appear, the next step is applying it to your lawn. As previously mentioned, you may use either a small container, such as a watering can, bucket, or a hose-end sprayer. (Hose-end sprayers are the best option for covering a large area of lawn.) Once the soap solution is applied to your lawn, get on your hands and knees to look for insects to appear. It may take a few minutes. Insects in your turfgrass need air, and the soap mixture is an irritant.

Hints for a successful soap flush application:

Pour the solution around the border of the good grass and along the border of the damaged area of your lawn. Don’t pour the soap solution into the brown grass that’s already damaged because insects won’t be as active in those areas. (Once insects have damaged one area of the lawn, they generally move to other nearby areas to continue feeding on actively growing grass.)
If the soap flush test doesn't flush out any armyworm larvae, try it again under different circumstances, such as trying it at a different time of day.
Depending on the species and population, insects should emerge 5–10 minutes after application. Some insects, such as sod webworms, may not appear for 15 minutes.
Aside from fall armyworms, the following insects are the most common pests you can identify with the soap flush test: Chinch bugs, mole crickets, annual bluegrass weevils, cutworms, bluegrass billbugs, sod webworms, and grub worms. It’s normal to see more than one type of insect when you perform a soap flush test, including many beneficial insects like pincher bugs/earwigs, which are predators for harmful chinch bugs. These beneficial insects don’t harm your turfgrass in any way.

FALL ARMYWORM TREATMENT AND AFTERCARE

TREATING FALL ARMYWORMS IN YOUR TURFGRASS

Applying the most effective chemicals to treat your turfgrass and eliminate fall armyworms (and other destructive insects) requires a chemical license in the State of Georgia and is performed by companies that specialize in treating turfgrass. Brown Brothers recommends that you hire a chemical company (see two recommendations, below) to treat any damaging insects in your turfgrass. These companies are experts in identifying pests and other diseases in your lawn, and will not only guarantee each application, but can also set you up on a regular schedule to apply customized fertilizers and chemicals that prevent and control weeds.

If you enjoy caring for your lawn yourself, bear in mind that there are no "over-the-counter" preventative treatments available to homeowners for fall armyworms in the egg, pupa, or moth stages. However, there are insecticides available to homeowners that will treat armyworm caterpillars (larvae)—the stage when armyworms are eating and damaging your turfgrass. One type is preventative and one is curative, and it's recommended that you contact your County Extension office (below) for more information on the correct chemicals to use and how to apply them. Your County Extension office can also help you identify other insects and diseases in your turfgrass, recommend specific chemical and fertilizer treatments, and help with soil testing.

NOTE: Treat your turfgrass early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the armyworms are most active. If applied midday, the armyworms may be below the surface of the turfgrass and the application will not be as effective.

Also, if you live in an area prone to armyworm infestations, stock up on your preferred insecticide, so you'll be prepared to defend your yard with treatment when necessary. (In 2021, the widespread infestation of fall armyworms caught many homeowners by surprise. There was a limited supply of insecticide available in Georgia, and it was difficult to find and purchase—so be prepared to stock up, just in case!) Finally, make sure to read all of the instructions on the insecticide carefully and apply at the application rate recommended on the product label for the pest you are targeting.

AFTERCARE AND RECOVERY

WARM SEASON TURFGRASS: The good news is that, in most cases, warm-season lawns will recover from an armyworm infestation. Fall armyworms don't eat stolons and rhizomes of warm season turf and growth will resume from those resilient plant parts. After you've applied curative insecticide treatments and if it's been four weeks since you fertilized, it's recommended that you apply a good 5-10-30 fertilizer with Acelepryn insecticide to your lawn to give it a boost in regrowth and provide preventative protection. Also, thoroughly water your lawn until it greens back up. This is important for established sod, but it is especially important for new sod that does not have the root structure in place to help it recover. Water, water, water!

TALL FESCUE: While warm-season grasses, given proper care, will typically recover from armyworm damage, damage to tall fescue is often much more significant. Tall Fescue lawns simply do not have the same tolerance to fall armyworm activity, particularly if it is not very well established. As a result, the damage in tall fescue often requires overseeding or re-sodding in order to repair the damage. A new lawn can go from fine one day, to a complete loss in as little as 24 to 48 hours. Tall fescue users cannot take the fall armyworm threat too lightly!

No matter what type of turfgrass you have, it's recommended that you stay vigilant and treat your turfgrass for an armyworm infestation more than once. Just because the armyworms have gone to the pupae stage, it does not mean they are gone. They will mature, lay eggs, hatch, and infest your yard again, so treat your turfgrass multiple times according to the insecticide instructions to break the armyworm life cycle.

RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL COMPANIES

Arbor-Nomics Turf, Inc.
651 Langford Dr. NW
Norcross, GA 30071

https://www.arbor-nomics.com/

678-661-4844

Arbor-Nomics Turf, Inc.
651 Langford Dr. NW
Norcross, GA 30071

https://www.arbor-nomics.com/

678-661-4844

COUNTY EXTENSION OFFICES

Barrow County Extension

90 Lanthier Street, Suite B

Winder, GA 30680

https://extension.uga.edu/county-offices/barrow.html

770-307-3029

Gwinnett County Extension
750 South Perry Street, Suite 400 Lawrenceville, GA 30046

https://extension.uga.edu/county-offices/gwinnett.html

678-377-4010

Jackson County Extension
255 Curtis H. Spence Drive

Jefferson, GA 30549

https://extension.uga.edu/county-offices/jackson.html

706-367-6344

REFERENCES

Braman, S. K., Duncan, R. R., Hanna, W. W., & Engelke, M. C. (2004a). Integrated effects of host resistance and insecticide concentration on survival of and turfgrass damage by the fall armyworm (Lepidoptera: Noctuidae). Journal of Entomological Science, 39(4), 584–597. https://doi.org/10.18474/0749-8004-39.4.584

Braman, S. K., Duncan, R. R., Hanna, W. W., & Engelke, M. C. (2004b). Turfgrass species and cultivar influences on survival and parasitism of fall armyworm. Journal of Economic Entomology, 97(6), 1993–1998. https://doi.org/10.1603/0022-0493-97.6.1993

Khan, F. Z. A., & Joseph, S. V. (2022). Assessment of predatory activity in residential lawns and sod farms. Biological Control, 169, 104885. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biocontrol.2022.104885

Khan, F. Z. A., & Joseph, S. V. (2024). Influence of short-term, water-deprived bermudagrass on Orius insidiosus predation and Spodoptera frugiperda larval survival and development. Biocontrol Science and Technology , 34(2), 189–202. https://doi.org/10.1080/09583157.2024.2317124

Nagoshi, R. N., Meagher, R. L., & Hay-Roe, M. (2012). Inferring the annual migration patterns of fall armyworm (Lepidoptera: Noctuidae) in the United States from mitochondrial haplotypes. Ecology and Evolution, 2(7), 1458–1467. https://doi.org/10.1002/ece3.268

Potter, D. A., & Braman, S. K. (1991). Ecology and management of turfgrass insects. Annual Review of Entomology, 36, 383–406. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.en.36.010191.002123

Singh, G., Waltz, C., & Joseph, S. V. (2021). Potassium and nitrogen impacts on survival and development of fall armyworm (Lepidoptera: Noctuidae). Journal of Entomological Science, 56(4), 411–423. https://doi.org/10.18474/JES20-58

Sparks, A. N. (1979). A review of the biology of the fall armyworm. Fla. Entomol., 62, 82–86. https://doi.org/10.2307/3494083

Fescue FAQs

Tue, 01 Jul 2025 16:47:27 GMT

IF YOUR FESCUE LAWN ISN'T A BEAUTIFUL, THICK, LUSH,

GREEN CARPET, THEN IT NEEDS TO BE RESCUED!

One of the most beneficial things you can do to bring fescue grass back to life is to aerate and interseed just before the grass begins to grow rapidly. In Georgia, fescue grass makes the most of its productive growth in the Fall, so September and October are prime months to aerate and interseed fescue lawns. (Bermuda, zoysia grass and centipede grass lawns should be aerated in April, just as they have completed green-up and are ready for vigorous growth.) For more information on aeration and interseeding for fescue grass and how to care for newly interseeded lawn use the links below to read our FAQs.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT AERATION

This section provides more about aeration, including a deep dive into the process of aeration and how it benefits your Fescue grass, an explanation of thatch and seed germination, information on the clay in Georgia's soil, and the differences between aerators and which type works best.

WHAT IS AERATION AND HOW DOES IT BENEFIT MY FESCUE GRASS?

Aeration is the process of mechanically poking thousands of small holes into every square inch of the soil in your lawn, which will allow water, oxygen and nutrients to better penetrate to the roots of your grass. Yearly aeration will give you healthier grass growth, more productive roots, and a fescue lawn that feels like a soft green rug when you walk on it. Better yet, the holes in your lawn created by aeration causes roots to go deeper, making the lawn more resistant to drought and disease.

THATCH AND SEED GERMINATION

Thatch is a loose, intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develops between the zone of green vegetation and the soil surface. Thatch build-up begins when turf produces organic debris faster than it can be broken down. The parts of the turf that are most resistant to decay (stems, crowns, and roots) make up the bulk of thatch. Having some thatch in your turf is good and helps with the resiliency and health of your lawn, because thatch is a good protector. It provides insulation against temperature extremes and variations in soil moisture, and a good thatch layer is a half-inch thick or less.

Thatch is a good protector, and a good thatch layer is a half-inch thick or less. This thickness will provide insulation against temperature extremes and variations in soil moisture.

While some thatch is desirable in your lawn, too much can result in some serious problems. Thick thatch layers can cause extensive root damage and wet thatch holds too much water during rainy periods, which results in root rot. Also, another concern of thatch build-up is that it could potentially harbor large populations of disease-causing organisms and insects. Core aeration is very beneficial to the overall heath of your lawn, because the plugs of soil deposited on your lawn's surface help decompose thatch.

Further, if you are doing a light fall interseeding on a fescue lawn, the holes left by the aerator make a perfect place for the seeds to fall into and germinate and fertilizer also penetrates more deeply and helps a lawn recover and look its best after core aeration.

THE CLAY IN GEORGIA'S SOIL AND THE BENEFITS OF SEASONAL AERATION

Anyone in Georgia who has tried to dig a hole can tell you about Georgia clay. The soil in Georgia is naturally mixed with tiny particles of clay that are easily packed together, so when it rains, when you walk or play on it, or even when mow it, the soil becomes more compacted. After a hot summer in Georgia, the clay in your lawn can bake and even feel as hard as a brick! Seasonal aeration is the answer, because it loosens the compacted soil without damaging your fescue grass.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF AERATORS - WHICH IS BEST?

There are two types of aerators: core and spike. Core aerators have hollow tines called “spoons” that plunge into the ground and pull up large plugs of earth as the machine travels across your lawn. Spike aerators insert narrow, solid rods into the earth. University of Georgia turf expert, Dr. Robert Carrow, compared the effects of aerating with a core aerator versus a spike aerator and concluded that core aerators increased deep rooting and water extraction by 25 percent, whereas spike aerators showed no effects on grass health. Further, walking around on a lawn with spike aerator "shoes" may be great exercise, but this type of aeration adds very little benefit to your lawn.

We recommend using only core aerators and covering your lawn in a criss-cross pattern (double-pass aeration), directing the aerator over the entire lawn, going back and forth in one direction, then directing the second pass back and forth at right angles to the first pass. This ensures that water, oxygen, and nutrients will penetrate to the roots of your grass.

EXAMPLES OF CORE AERATION:

EXAMPLES OF SPIKE AERATION:

INFO ON INTERSEEDING AND OVERSEEDING

- THE TWO ARE NOT THE SAME -

INTERSEEDING VERSUS OVERSEEDING - WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?

Interseeding is the practice of seeding the same species into itself to increase lawn thickness and recover lost grass. For example, tall fescue is interseeded into tall fescue in the fall to improve the overall quality of the lawn, which may have declined through the summer stress period. Different cultivars may be used, but the turfgrass species should be the same.

Overseeding is the practice of temporarily introducing a second turfgrass species – typically a cool-season grass – into a permanent species – typically a warm-season species. This is done to add winter color or traffic tolerance. An example would be overseeding a bermudagrass baseball field in the fall with perennial ryegrass, for a green field in the early spring.

The second species can compete with the permanent species for light, water, space or nutrients, so overseeding can become an additional stress during green-up in the spring. Of the warm-season turfgrasses, bermudagrass is best adapted to and most tolerant of overseeding. Grasses that only have stolons and no rhizomes, like centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, should not be overseeded.

SUCCESSFUL INTERSEEDING

Core aeration is a common practice prior to interseeding, particularly in tall fescue. The benefits include exchanging soil and air, relieving compaction, increasing water filtration and improving planting or seedbed conditions.

SUCCESSFUL OVERSEEDING

Successful overseeding involves growing healthy grass before overseeding, proper seed and seeding rate selection, overseeding timing and preparation, post-planting maintenance, and effective spring transition. It is particularly important to maintain proper soil fertility, relieve soil compaction, and prevent excessive thatch development.

AFTERCARE INFORMATION

- AERATION/INTERSEEDING/OVERSEEDING -

September and October are the ideal months to plant tall fescue. Grass seeded earlier is subject to heat stress and diseases, while planting later leaves the plant vulnerable to cold weather. Seeding in December and early spring is generally not recommended because the plant does not have adequate time to develop the deep root system that's needed to survive Georgia’s hot summers. Scroll down for the 1-2-3's on how to care for your newly aerated and interseeded or overseeded fescue lawn.

FESCUE LAWN CARE CALENDAR

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE GEORGIA EXTENSION'S FESCUE LAWN CALENDAR FOR SPECIFICS ON HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR FESCUE GRASS YEAR ROUND.

THE 1-2-3's ON CARING FOR YOUR NEWLY-SEEDED FESCUE LAWN

IRRIGATION RULES: Irrigate three to five times per day until the seedlings are well established. The total amount of water applied during a day should seldom exceed half an inch. Irrigate without causing puddling on the soil surface, as extra water encourages disease. After germination, gradually reduce the frequency and increase the time of irrigation until a normal irrigation program can be established.

FIRST: WATER, WATER, WATER!

The most important thing to remember after your fescue lawn has been aerated and interseeded is to keep the upper 1 to 2 inches of soil moist and not wet. We can't stress this enough: Proper irrigation is absolutely crucial if you want uniform seed germination!

Keeping the soil moist usually means daily watering of about 1/8 to 1/4 inch for the first three weeks. As the seedlings develop, irrigate less frequently, but wet the soil more deeply.

If you have an irrigation system, keeping your soil moist be will be easy! All you have to do is set the timer on your system and keep an eye on it to make sure the cycles begin and continue until the soil is properly watered. If you don't have an irrigation system, there are still some things you can do to make watering your lawn much easier. First, make sure you have a dependable garden hose and then attach a sprinkler that will evenly distribute the water over sections of your lawn. Second, you can automate watering using a hose faucet timer that attaches to your spigot and will automatically turn the water on and off.

SECOND: FERTILIZATION

Your newly-aerated and interseeded fescue lawn needs to be fertilized and the best time is after the seedlings have emerged, generally three weeks after seeding. Earlier fertilizing may encourage warm-season turf competition. AVOID USING ANY HERBICIDES UNTIL SPRING.

After your lawn has been aerated and interseeded, wait for the seedlings to emerge and then fertilize. Apply one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of top-quality fertilizer, then repeat fertilization monthly, which is recommended, but not required.

THIRD: MOWING

Under good conditions, tall fescue seed will germinate in 5 to 10 days and will be ready for its first mowing between 2 and 3 weeks when the height of the new fescue grass reaches 2 inches. After the seedlings mature, the second cutting height should be between 2 ½ to 3 inches. Once mature, the lawn can be maintained between 2 to 2 ½ inches, but a height of 3 inches is suggested during the summer months.

After your fescue lawn has been aerated, interseeded, and fertilized, wait until the new fescue grass has reached 2 inches to mow. Ensure your mower's blades are sharp to insure seedlings are cut and not ripped, and always mow when the grass is dry to reduce seedling injury.

Vegetable Garden Calendar

Tue, 01 Jul 2025 16:45:34 GMT

Vegetable Garden Calendar for Georgia

According to Bob Westerfield, the Senior Public Service Associate in Horticulture at UGA's Extension office, you can plant or harvest something from your garden almost all year. The two major planting periods, however, are spring (March to May) and fall (mid-July to September). The spring plantings are harvested in June and July, while the fall plantings are harvested from October to December. January and February are prime times for looking at seed catalogs, dreaming of warm spring days, preparing garden plots, and getting ready for a productive season. To get started, download the University of Georgia Extension's Vegetable Garden Calendar and checklist below.

Important Note: Their monthly recommendations—especially the spring and fall planting dates—are for the typical day and month in middle Georgia. To use their calendar, consider middle Georgia as a belt across the state from Columbus through Macon to Augusta. Spring planting dates can be as much as 2 to 3 weeks earlier in extreme south Georgia, and fall planting dates also can be as much as 2 weeks later. In north Georgia, the spring planting dates are from 1 to 3 weeks later as you progress northward through the mountain counties; fall planting dates are about 2 weeks earlier. Also, note that their recommendations are based on long-term average dates of the last killing frost in the spring and first killing frost in the fall. Every year does not conform to these averages, so you should use your own judgment about advancing or delaying the time for each job, depending on weather conditions.

Download the UGA Extension

Vegetable Garden Calendar

This calendar is prepared mainly as a reminder and guide for planning your garden work throughout the year in Georgia. Other UGA Extension publications containing information about specific gardening practices are mentioned throughout this leaflet and are also available at your county Extension office.

About Brown Brothers Landscaping

Sun, 15 Jun 2025 06:25:24 GMT

About Brown Brothers Landscaping

Brown Brothers Landscaping is a full-service, residential lawn care and maintenance company that really cares about the work we do. We pay attention to the details and take care of your lawn as if it were our own! Our residential services include mowing, edging, trimming, weeding, blowing, and pruning. We also offer property cleanup and debris removal, leaf removal, and pine straw and mulch installation.

When you set up service, we will arrive on a schedule that you set up—weekly, bi-weekly, every ten days...your choice!—and only inclement weather will change the schedule. Our prices are very affordable and we do not require a contract. Best of all, we reward our loyal customers with discounts if they refer us to a family member, friend, or neighbor .

About the Owner

Doug Brown

Doug started his professional career in 2007 in his family’s construction business, and after 15 years, decided to venture out, follow his passion for entrepreneurship, and pursue a career in the landscaping industry. He loves working outdoors and is passionate about leaving a homeowner's property looking better than he found it. He has always taken pride in caring for his own lawn and finds a sense of calm and peace while maintaining his own yard, and with each customer, he wants to provide a similar experience. He pays attention to detail and strives to help his customers reach their landscaping goals. Being a small, family-owned and operated business, he's able to spend the time needed to meet his clients' needs and to help make sure their yards look better than ever.